Planting Fig Trees: A Masterclass
Hello! I'm Ross the Fig Boss, and fig trees have been my passion since 2016. I've planted hundreds of fig trees in various locations and soils. In this article, I share all the tips I've learned to help you avoid mistakes and succeed. I'll cover when and how to plant fig trees, site selection, spacing, and preparation before planting.
Follow these tips and I guarantee the success of your newly planted fig tree.
Want to make planting easier? There isn’t a better spade or shovel for any planting job. Trust me, I’ve broken many spades and tried most major brands. Check it out here.
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When to Plant Fig Trees
Zones 5-7: Plant fig trees in the spring. Fall planting is less reliable due to mixed results and the potential for cold damage.
Zone 8 and higher: Fig trees can be planted anytime. Especially when the weather is mild. Fall is particularly advantageous as it allows the trees to establish roots before winter and thrive in the spring.
In hot climates, such as Southern California, West Texas, or Arizona, summer planting requires additional care, including consistent watering, mulching, and potentially using shade cloth.
Site Selection for Fig Trees
Choosing the right location for your fig tree is critical. Ideally, plant fig trees in the warmest and sunniest spot available. They can handle it better than most fruiting plants and will thrive there, especially in cooler climates.
A location near a heat-radiating structure, like a brick wall, greenhouse, or garage helps supercharge a fig tree’s metabolism, ripening process, and overall productivity.
However, in extremely hot and dry regions, you may want to cover your fig tree and other fruiting plants with shade cloth during peak summer months to prevent heat stress.
Spacing Fig Trees
Fig trees can be spaced as close or as far as you want, depending on your goals:
For a hedge effect, plant fig trees as close as 6 inches, 1, 2, or 4 feet apart.
For general planting, space them 4-12 feet apart.
In humid areas prone to rust, space trees further apart to improve airflow and reduce disease pressure.
Fig trees can be maintained at various heights and widths. Dwarf varieties can be easily managed at (4-5 feet) and faster-growing fig trees (up to 12 feet) with appropriate pruning.
Planting Fig Trees
Fig trees are unique in the many ways they can be planted. For each node buried below the soil, fig trees will form roots there leading to a faster expansion of their rootball.
Additionally, unlike most fruit trees, fig trees are not sold as grafted trees, allowing them to be planted deeper or even below grade without the risk of graft union complications.
Deep Planting:
In dry or desert-like areas, dig a hole five feet deep.
Train the fig tree to grow as a single-stem whip.
Plant the tree at the bottom of the hole, letting the top stick out.
This method allows roots to form along the stem, much like pepper or tomato plants, leading to robust growth.
Benefits include cooler soil and access to more water, essential in hot and dry climates.
Related: Fig Tree Watering | How Much Water, When to Water & Why Excess Water Leads to Watered-Down Figs!
Planting at a depth where at least 2-4 nodes of a tree’s trunk are below the soil surface can ensure fig trees resprout from below the soil even during bad winters.
Shallow Planting:
Plant fig trees above grade in humid regions with over 25 inches of annual rainfall.
Create a swale, berm, or mound (at least one to two feet high).
This prevents waterlogging and ensures better fruit quality by avoiding excessive moisture.
Handling the Rootball:
Handle the root ball with care to avoid damaging the roots, especially when dealing with young fig trees.
If the root ball is root-bound, gently tease the roots apart.
When removing the tree from its pot, turn the pot upside down and gently tap it to release the root ball.
If you're using a fabric pot, carefully cut the fabric to free the roots without tugging or pulling on the tree.
Tamping the Soil:
After placing the tree in the planting hole, ensure that the soil around the root ball is firmly packed. This step is crucial to eliminate air pockets that can hinder root growth and water absorption.
Use your hands, feet, or the end of a shovel to tamp down the soil around the root ball, ensuring good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil.
This is the number one mistake I see when planting fig trees.
Watering and Mulching:
After planting, water the fig tree thoroughly to help settle the soil around the roots and eliminate any remaining air pockets.
Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree to conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. Mulching is especially important in dry climates to maintain consistent soil moisture levels.
Preparation Before Planting Fig Trees
Proper preparation before planting a fig tree is critical. When planting a fig tree the main objective is to encourage as much growth as possible. Fig trees can take a few years to produce high-quality fruit. Shorten that time by taking these steps to encourage as much growth as possible while it’s young.
Here’s how:
Choose the Right Pot Size. Don’t Worry About Age:
Before planting your fig tree in the ground, establish it in at least a 2 to 3-gallon-sized pot. Smaller pots, like 1-gallon containers, may not have enough root development to establish quickly after planting, while larger pots, such as 10 to 15 gallons, can be difficult to transplant due to their size and increased risk of air pockets.
Don’t Plant Unless It’s Growing, Healthy, & A Vibrant Green:
Ensure your fig tree is healthy and actively growing before planting. If the tree exhibits pale or weak growth, it indicates a nutritional deficiency.
Feed the tree while it's still in the pot until the growth becomes vigorous and the leaves turn a healthy dark green. This step is vital because a fig tree that is not actively growing will likely stall after planting.
Removing Figs
Remove excess fruits from the tree before planting to ensure that the tree directs its energy towards root and shoot growth rather than fruit production.
Consider a type of pruning called rejuvenation pruning before planting by cutting the tree back to 6-12 inches. This technique encourages the tree to produce strong, healthy shoots and can help lessen the severity of Fig Mosaic Virus.
Hard pruning fig trees before or after planting changes their hormones reducing fruit production and encouraging more leaf growth. More leaves mean the tree can gather more energy to grow faster in the first year after planting.
Related: Rejuvenation Pruning Fig Trees to Eliminate Fig Mosaic Virus | Its History, Benefits & Uses
Training Fig Trees
When planting and spacing your fig tree, it’s important to consider your training methods and their inevitable desired form. Figs naturally grow as bushes, but they can be trained into different forms:
Bush form: Recommended for Zones 5-7. Remove all shoots and suckers from the base, keeping only one main stem.
Tree form: Suitable for Zone 8 and above. Remove lower branches to maintain a single trunk.
Low cordon: Great for all areas, but ideal in zones 5-6 (inherently easier winter protection). Bend cordons to the desired height (6 inches or 1-3 ft) and support them with a wire system.
Belgium fences, fans, and espaliers: Fig trees can be grown against walls or structures, suitable in Zone 7 and above. Train them with wires and stakes.
